Wednesday, December 9, 2020

Screen Printed Haori Jacket




I took another online class, screen printing with thickened dyes from the lovely Pat Pauly. She is offering several such classes online in the coming year.  I recommend them.  They are labor intensive but really fun and very professionally done.

I wanted to try the Wiksten Haori pattern so I purchased a huge painter's drop cloth from OSH (Outdoor Supply Hardware here in California).  It had a lovely hand, loosely woven, it was a runner of about 20'x3' and cost only $18.  I washed it in Synthrapol which made it even softer.  


I traced the pattern pieces with a Sharpie, giving myself some extra room in all directions in case of shrinkage.  Next time, I'll cut it out, it will save space on the worktable.  I serge all of the edges carefully to avoid fraying during wash out.

I scraped grey over the entire piece of cloth in an uneven design...after all, I don't want it to look like I bought a piece of grey cloth to screen onto!  

I used several screens of my own making.  And some hand scribbling with a squirt bottle.



I really like the pattern.  It's extremely roomy tho so be careful.  I cut a medium and I think I could go down to a small on everything but the sleeves next time.


This garment looks and feels like it's been worn by someone at work for a few decades, which I love.  The minute I threw it on it felt like a favorite old garment; soft and comfortable.


For the lining I used a heavy cheesecloth, or really shear muslin, not sure which since I've had it in my stash for years.  I printed it with an old silk screen I created years ago.  The weight works really well next to the drop cloth fabric.

One huge plus about this pattern is that it's almost zero waste, something surface design folks look for.  Who wants to cut away so much of your hand printed fabric?

My next post will be another use of the cloth I made in the class.  This time I'm trying several different pieces in one garment.  Watch out...might want to put on sunglasses before you open the next post...just saying...

 

19 comments:

  1. Oh my gosh. This is fabulous in every way. I can't wait to see more.

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  2. This looks like it would cost a fortune in retail, as if you could bear to part with it. It is absolutely gorgeous, you must be very happy with it.

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  3. What a great make, your blogs are always so full of interesting ideas, please keep them coming.

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    1. Thank you, Chris. It's great to know people are tuning in!

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  4. That came out fantastic!

    I love the Wiksten Haori. I made a long one in Black organic cotton terry and it's both glamorous and cozy. I know I'll be making another one soon, maybe in linen, maybe shorter.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, a long one is in my future, too. Cozy is the word for this garment!

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  5. This is so wonderful, Gayle! I love the design. I've made this pattern but it was huge on me. I think I may try it again, seeing yours and size down significantly. Did you follow their directions for the collar band or did you reduce the width?

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    1. I followed the directions. I need a lot of width around my bust area so thought it would be better to have as much collar as possible. Thanks so much for your thoughts. Have a great holiday!

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  6. You are such an inspiration! Your creation is perfect.
    Thank you for sharing.

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  7. Another inspiration. Love the grey and all the patterns, especially the barbed wire! Did you interface/interline the collar?

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    1. Nope, I wanted it to drape. The drop cloth fabric was stiff enough. Thanks, Barb!

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    2. Hi Barbara,
      Somehow I think I deleted your last comment I got today! So sorry! Thank you for visiting!

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