Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Cashmere and Vintage Japanese Textiles

It's cashmere season.  I've been digging into my stash and fondling the pieces.  My hands landed on a big bundle of overdyed orange I'd been holding onto for years.

They finally called to me.  I was leaving for a week's retreat on the Oregon coast and I wasn't bringing a machine.  This shawl went together quickly while I was looking out to the tumultuous  northern Pacific and listening to all the conversations of the women who surrounded me.  Bliss.


I used Perle cotton, mostly single strand, but stitched two rows on each seam for strength.  I've made half a dozen of these cashmere shawls.  Some machine sewn, the others by hand.  But never double hand stitched each seam.  I can't believe how much weight it adds to the garment.  In a good way.



This fragment was one from the '90's!  First I tried stitching pompoms on what is now the underside of the fragment.  I must have used a piece of printed paper to stabilize the back, then I eco-overdyed it, washed it and the paper partially disintegrated.  It's machine sewn with vintage Japanese silver thread I got at the Santa Cruz Flea Market years ago.  

It's funny how, 10 years later, my tastes have changed so much that I love the back of a piece better than the front!


The dye method is one my friend, Janet, taught me.  Make a slurry paste of your desired dye.  Mordant the fabric, keep it damp.  Put it into a kitty litter tray and add the dye slurry.  With gloves (!) squish the fabric until you are satisfied with the look and coverage.

Put the fabric into a plastic bag and steam or microwave until the juices run clear...oh wait, that's a poultry cooking method...well you know what I mean. Then, let the fabric cool and wash it on gentle, front loader machine preferably.  Lay flat to dry.  This is not meant to be a specific formula.  It's a loose process kids.

But, it produces a wonderful mottled look that lends itself to piecing.


This sucker is long, about 30" X 7'.  Possibly too long...


But I wore it the other day and it felt so good!



And here's all I had left!  Oh but wait, I just found more on the guest bed...hmmm, hat?



While I was in Japan last May I was lucky to visit two of the temple markets and found several pieces of vintage fabric.  Some of which had some boro hidden inside.  This is NOT a boro garment per se.  This is a garment made in the boro tradition using vintage fabrics and modern piecing placement.

The pattern is self drafted from a RTW garment owned by a friend, Sarah.  I've made it four times. 


Here are two examples of the original boro parts of the garment.  The patched area on the left is the way I bought the fabric.  It is the way they patched holes.  I learned how to do this in a class with Jody Alexander and it was a thrill to find this original bit of patching hidden in the fabric, I didn't find it till I washed it at home!

The area to the right is another example of a piece of cloth that I bought like this in Japan.  It may be old or not but I'm sure the one on the left is boro.


Again, another hole patch on the left.  I hand stitched the patches using a thick thread.



The back is made of vintage fabrics but new construction.



Detail of back, the fabrics were lovely to work with. 


The Oregon coast, right?