Monday, September 7, 2020

Silk Screening with Thickened Dyes

Hi everyone, long time!  I've been doing a lot of surface design, a lot of hand sewing and a bit of machine sewing.  I just finished a class with Pat Pauly.  I took the same class last year at the Pacific NorthWest Art School.  

Pat is a terrific teacher and this class was so fun and successful.  It was a live class!  I've never taken a class where you are in the artist's studio for the whole five days.  And of course that means she was in your studio, too!  There were 8 of us, so the Zoom screen was a perfect 9 Hollywood Squares.  

Pat lives on the east coast so the class started at 8am each day.  Even after it ended I was out in the garage printing.  I worked 8-10 hours each day.

It was fascinating to see how the others set up their studios, and to be able to work alongside Pat in her studio was really great.  I recommend this class for anyone who is serious about silk screening with thickened dyes.  There are a lot of materials needed and its fairly rigorous physically.  But if you are inclined to try it I would say go for it!

After working with this medium for a year I think I'm getting to the place where I can create enough fabric to make garments.  I'm still working on the images, figuring out what I'd like to paint, but I'm closer than I was last summer.


The first piece of fabric I worked with was a combination of 4 women's light grey tshirts.  I cut them up first so that I could lay them flat before printing.  This garment is either very chic or looks like I've escaped from King Arthur's Court...and am still walking around in the same garment!

I used a self drafted pattern from a RTW garment.  I've made this pattern several times.  It's a perfect shape to piece fabrics together.  


I'm crazy about this pattern.  It's way more flattering on than it looks in these photos.  It has a very flattering drapes over the body.


The process uses a combination of techniques; silk screening, direct application and painting to name a few.


Pat is a very generous teacher and super easy to follow.  She give a huge amount of techniques and gives you time to explore each one during the week.


I had a lot of fun piecing this.  I got nervous after I did the front, thinking I might not have enough but had some leftover.


 I'll most likely use the same pattern for this 3' length of seersucker.  I might do a bit more doodling with my new Arteza Fabric Markers.


Here's one of the techniques I'm developing.  It has three layers of color applied, waiting for the last layer to dry before applying the next.  This photo was taken before washing, that's why it looks a bit shiny.


This knit was painted.  Not sure I'll do this technique again, it's not as satisfying.  But I have three yards of it so I'll make it up and see how it looks.  Not sure what it will be yet...

Until next time...













 

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Love Birds!


Most everyone who knows me knows that I love birds.  Joe says it's because I have a bird beak for a nose.  I'll take that.  I do!

Often, when I don't know what I feel like sewing my hands go to bird making.  You can see several Ann Wood birds that I've made in the Misc. page on this blog.  

I make other types of birds, too.  One that I've been fooling with for a few years now is a bird broach.  I've gathered a little flock.


Here they are, all flocked together on the railing of bunkhouse deck, enjoying this ancient red rose in all her glory.  We inherited this rose, I know not the name.

My little broaches, well, they're not so little, are really satisfying to make.  I pull out the bin full of hundreds of fabric scraps and start painting with cloth.


 They are very rough, I don't like to work in an exacting way, nor am I able to so that works out.  I use pearl cotton, embroidery thread and regular sewing thread.  The base is cardboard.  I tape wire to the legs for stability.


These little guys are a joy to make because each piece of cloth is a reminder of a project I worked on. The cloth could be old silk scarves, cashmere, vintage kimono fabric, pieces of garments I made or remade from RTW.


I glue a piece of cashmere onto the back, cut it just a smidge bigger than the cardboard.  I attach a pin back to the cashmere before glueing.
Then I sew the small pieces that make up the bird to that along the edges.  I finish with the stitching.


And I make a big, glorious mess doing it!
Tweet!

Here is a post from Colossal, a wonderful online newsletter that I subscribe to, showing  latte birds.  So delightful.




Sunday, April 19, 2020

When The Going Gets Tough, The Tough Get Sewing

How can I feel so good about all this time to sew and make?  Shouldn't I be feeling anxious, worried and stressed?  Am I the heartless person who blithely goes about her life not caring about others?

These are the questions I've been asking myself lately.  I am comfortable with this new life.  Staying home, wandering around the house and garden, cleaning...tidying...disinfecting(!)...making things work again that have been broken for years.  More time to consider, notice and just be.

There is something about this time that is very calming and satisfying.  Maybe it's my age?  Maybe it's where I am in my life?  Whatever, I feel lucky to be in the position I'm in.

Of course I am horrified by the tragedy we are witnessing and I am mindful of how fortunate I am.  My major worry and heartache is that our business is closed and we have had to lay off dozens of people which was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life.  We are trying hard to work with each of them to help in some way.

But I find some comfort in knowing we are not alone in this.  It is what's happening and there's little that can be done right now.  We just have to wait and see when we can open again and bring back as many of our wonderful staff as we possibly can.  It will take a long time but we will do it!  And for the meantime, I intend to use this time for reflection and self improvement.

So, I'm sewing like a fiend!  And making stuff.  Making masks for my colleagues and friends.  I find that sewing clothes does not have the same appeal it did before the SIP order.  I can't wear any of them!  And the clothes I find myself wearing are the old ones that I can throw in the washer after one wearing and set it to HOT...which I never do normally.

I'm in the bunkhouse pretty much every day.  Some days I just tidy up, and I mean some deep cleaning that's been needed.  I've been mending and remaking; the projects that always got sidelined because of lack of time.

So here goes, this is what I've been doing.



Back in February, so long ago in so many ways, I attended the Design Outside The Lines Carmel retreat with Diane Ericson and Kay Khan.  Kay's work uses fabric scraps that are sewn together with a felt interior making a stiff, shape-able form. 

Her work is usually very large, 3D sculptures but she also makes jewelry using her technique.  This is the third class I've taken.  Previously I made collar-type necklaces, that you can see them in my  "Misc" category on this blog.

This time I wanted to concentrate on earrings, which I wear much more frequently.


I like the way this project is going.  The earrings are light and have just the right amount of swing and movement.  I'm using beads and elements from thrift store jewelry for embellishment.  I just signed up for a Blueprint class on wirework.  I need it!


Please excuse the over exposure and generally horrible photos for this piece...no excuse other than I really don't know what I'm doing!  This is a vest that was drafted from ready-to-wear.  The fabric is a black techno-taffeta with metal threads to give it memory.  I bought yards of it from a California designer who was retiring.

The threads create these little barbs at the cut edges that tend to poke you no matter how you finish the seams.  So for this version I tried encasing the edges around my neck and armholes with cashmere.  We'll see....


Detail of a little cashmere piecing along the neck edge.


I applied a second pocket with the cashmere to tie in the other elements.  Plus you always need more comfy pockets to sink your fists into!



Diane Ericson's son, Miles Frode, makes the most wonderful textiles.  I've purchases and used several over the years.  I designed this purse from a Garnet Hill catalogue I saved years ago.  It has huge exterior pockets on either end.  I like this kind of pocket and have used them in previous totes.  Good place for keys.


The sewn-on center pieces are from canvas I painted many years ago.


And this particularly bad photo shows the inside, my fabric used here.


And now, you will see just how whacky I am.  This is my latest invention.  It's a Covid-19 nose scratcher.  My nose is always itchy!  If I were serious about this, which I'm not, it's a joke (!) I would pin it on and use this nifty little brush to scratch my nose.  The velcro attached to the brush makes it easy to take off and put back on!  I know...too much time on my hands!

Stay safe, stay healthy, stay creative...all three save lives.


Saturday, March 14, 2020

Sewcial Distancing







Hi everyone!
I'm here on California's central coast basking in the rain and staying home.  It freaked me out at first to realize I'll be home for the next few weeks (months?) but I'm fine now.  I want to devote this time to learning new things, cleaning up around our home, spending more time with my darling husband and bakery/rosticceria business.

I sewed this VOTE pin at a Design Outside The lines recently with teacher Kay Kahn as my inspiration.  

Thank you to my pal, Wendy, for coming up with the term "sewcial distancing".  She used it to describe what we will have to do now that our sewing retreats, classes and get-togethers are canceled.  More home sewing and sharing with friends.  

I'm beginning an online group sharing project with several friends who will not be meeting for our annual retreat.  There's always a way to stay connected.

I've also decided to share more on my blog.  I'm finding more time to read blogs right now and I'm sure you're in the same boat.  So, look for more coming from me.  But please remember, for some reason I am not able to respond to your comments right now.  I can't find out how to remedy it so please don't be hurt when I do not respond.  I don't want it to keep me from reaching out right now tho!

About a year ago I bought a long boro vest on Etsy.  It came from Japan and the gal selling it said she found it in a multi-generational antique store in a small town, in the very agricultural area of Shikoku.  

It did not fit well and would have taken a lot of remaking to work so I finally decided to remake it into a haori jacket.  I kept all of the original stitching and piecing and used every single scrap of the fabric.  I hand stitched it.

Most of the edges I left raw but did sew a little hem in the sleeves.

In some spots it was (and still is) in very threadbare condition.  I patched some areas with vintage Japanese textiles I got there last year.  Other areas will have to remain tattered and be fixed as they tear.

The white threads were original to the piece.  I've seen them in other boro pieces and decided to keep them.  I believe, although I don't know this for certain, that they are stitches that were inside garments to secure raw edges.  






I just finished another haori jacket using vintage men's kimono pieces I got last year.  I wanted a quilted jacket so I bought very thin, good quality cotton and indigo dyed it for the lining.  I also indigo dyed the cotton batting.  

Originally I was going to quilt the boro haori but decided that hiding the back side of that cloth wasn't the right way to go.  Before I changed my mind I realized it was so threadbare I had to dye the batting as it would have shown through.  Boy, dyeing batting is not easy, I wouldn't recommend it.  

I inserted welt pockets cuz a girl's gotta have somewhere to stash her Kleenex!  I remember all of my old aunties with theirs tucked up their sleeves.  Never works for me, it always embarrassingly falls out at the most inappropriate times!

I hand quilted the jacket pieces with sashiko thread.  It's the first time I've used it and love this stuff!  It glides through the fabric like butter and doesn't knot or tangle like so many other hand stitching threads.  I'm a convert.


There were two slashes cut in the original cloth which I wanted to include in their natural state.  I simply layered a piece of cloth under them to secure the small opening.  I wonder which part of the kimono they were used on?  The neck, the underarm?  I've never seen this before in the kimono's I've taken apart.

Here's the second opening I mentioned above.  

I'm very happy with this jacket.  It feels like it's old already and reminds me of the worker jackets I saw in antique markets in Japan.

Last fall I was gifted a huge bag of very good, hand selected scraps from a group of sewing pals.  The leader of that group asked that everyone contribute only black pieces.  But then, my other two favorite colors, grey and mustard, showed up unexpectedly.

I decided on the Sapporo coat.  I had so much fun putting this together.  It will be a great spring coat.


I sewed the pieces onto a very drapy linen.



I still have my Girl Scout sash.  Raise your hand if you do, too!  A friend gave me this badge that seemed to fit right in since I was definitely a troublemaker when I was a kid...ask my mother.



And finally, I was lucky enough to see the Norman Rockwell retrospective at the Houston Art Museum before the world clipped my wings for a while.  It was far better than I expected and huge.  One section had the images he painted about social injustice.  This one has always felt so powerful to me.  

There were black and white photos of the little girl who posed for the painting with her father who was lovingly helping her with her braids.  There was also a video of her as a woman describing what it was like to go to and be a student in that school.  Such a wonderful exhibit.


And here is the dress Norman Rockwell had made especially for that painting.  It's the one the little girl wore.  Imagine, he saved it...

That's all from my neck of the woods.  I hope you are exploring your own creative options in your neck of the woods.  Stay well, be kind.  More ongoing creative activities will be posted soon.

Thursday, January 23, 2020

Trouble with Blogger

Thanks to all of you who responded to my last post.  I answered your comments but Blogger is not posting them.

I've been researching this issue online but have not solved the problem.  I'm also having trouble staying signed in.

May have something to do with the latest Apple update to Catalina...not sure.  If anyone else has had this problem and resolved it can we chat?

Thanks so much for tuning in,

Gayle

Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Cashmere and Vintage Japanese Textiles

It's cashmere season.  I've been digging into my stash and fondling the pieces.  My hands landed on a big bundle of overdyed orange I'd been holding onto for years.

They finally called to me.  I was leaving for a week's retreat on the Oregon coast and I wasn't bringing a machine.  This shawl went together quickly while I was looking out to the tumultuous  northern Pacific and listening to all the conversations of the women who surrounded me.  Bliss.


I used Perle cotton, mostly single strand, but stitched two rows on each seam for strength.  I've made half a dozen of these cashmere shawls.  Some machine sewn, the others by hand.  But never double hand stitched each seam.  I can't believe how much weight it adds to the garment.  In a good way.



This fragment was one from the '90's!  First I tried stitching pompoms on what is now the underside of the fragment.  I must have used a piece of printed paper to stabilize the back, then I eco-overdyed it, washed it and the paper partially disintegrated.  It's machine sewn with vintage Japanese silver thread I got at the Santa Cruz Flea Market years ago.  

It's funny how, 10 years later, my tastes have changed so much that I love the back of a piece better than the front!


The dye method is one my friend, Janet, taught me.  Make a slurry paste of your desired dye.  Mordant the fabric, keep it damp.  Put it into a kitty litter tray and add the dye slurry.  With gloves (!) squish the fabric until you are satisfied with the look and coverage.

Put the fabric into a plastic bag and steam or microwave until the juices run clear...oh wait, that's a poultry cooking method...well you know what I mean. Then, let the fabric cool and wash it on gentle, front loader machine preferably.  Lay flat to dry.  This is not meant to be a specific formula.  It's a loose process kids.

But, it produces a wonderful mottled look that lends itself to piecing.


This sucker is long, about 30" X 7'.  Possibly too long...


But I wore it the other day and it felt so good!



And here's all I had left!  Oh but wait, I just found more on the guest bed...hmmm, hat?



While I was in Japan last May I was lucky to visit two of the temple markets and found several pieces of vintage fabric.  Some of which had some boro hidden inside.  This is NOT a boro garment per se.  This is a garment made in the boro tradition using vintage fabrics and modern piecing placement.

The pattern is self drafted from a RTW garment owned by a friend, Sarah.  I've made it four times. 


Here are two examples of the original boro parts of the garment.  The patched area on the left is the way I bought the fabric.  It is the way they patched holes.  I learned how to do this in a class with Jody Alexander and it was a thrill to find this original bit of patching hidden in the fabric, I didn't find it till I washed it at home!

The area to the right is another example of a piece of cloth that I bought like this in Japan.  It may be old or not but I'm sure the one on the left is boro.


Again, another hole patch on the left.  I hand stitched the patches using a thick thread.



The back is made of vintage fabrics but new construction.



Detail of back, the fabrics were lovely to work with. 


The Oregon coast, right?